National geographic has quoted Kerala as one of the top 50 must visit destinations in the world, and within Kerala the backwater region is # 1. And the best way to enjoy the Backwaters is by staying on a “Kettvallam” (the Malayalam word for house boats). The Backwaters of Kerala stretch down the State parallel to the coast line for about 200 kilometers. Both fresh water from the mountain rivers as well as the sea water washed into the land make this waterbody called the Vembanaad lake. There are several natural & man-made canals that surround the lake forming water ways. The lake provides livelihood to thousands of fisherman as well as the fresh water makes rice farming possible all around it. Most of the coast is laced with coconut trees that has also led to the large coir industry that exist in Kerala. For more information visit - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerala_Backwaters

Spice Coast # 5 (the boat name). Spice Coast is the boat operating division of CGH earth properties. Our 2 bedroom boat was well equipped with all modern amenities and lovely sit outs with combination of wonderful service to make it a luxurious stay.

Onam feast consists of many courses - side dishes, fruits, sweets, fried food accompany the main course. A huge banana leaf (the top portion) is laid and indulgent fried food is served on the narrower part of the leaf, suggesting lesser quantities should be consumed. These include “Upperi (Plantain Chips), “Chakkavarthadu” (Jack Fruit Chips), Sarkaravaratti (Fried Plantain pieces in dark brown sugar coating) and Kerala style Pappadam . A fresh & small local variety of Banana is also placed. The top portion of the leaf is lined with “Manga Uppilittadu” (Mango Pickles), Naranja Uppilittadu (Lemon Pickles),  “Inji Curry “ (Ginger & Tamarind). These provide spicy taste as well as help in digestion. Following these are vegetable dishes such as  Avial, Kalan (a savory dish made with sweet pumpkin), “Beet root pachadi” (lightly cooked beets in yogurt sauce). “Yam Thoran” (dry vegetable side dish with plenty of coconut), “Potato Ishtu” (A stew like dish made with coconut milk), Vizhakkupatti (string bean side dish). The vegetable provide the fiber, vitamins and nutrients the body. Unpolished red ice is served in the largest part of the leaves with “Parippu Curry” (Kerala Style Dhal) with lot of ghee. Classic combination of carbs, protein & fat required for the body in right amounts. More rice is served to go with the Sambhar (Lentil vegetable thick soup), & Rasam (Tangy & spicy clear soup) and Buttermilk. The meal ends with general serving os the Payasam (Dessert), today they made it with split mung beans and jaggery (brown cane sugar blocks). All food is consumed using fingers and palms (No silverware is required for most Indian food anyway). Chef Kuchchimon explained to us, that traditionally the Payasam is mixed with a mashed bananas and some crushed pappadam is added for the extra crunch. I had to try that, and it was out of this world (the whole Kettuvallam experience is! for that matter).

Journey today started early in the morning, after a wonderful breakfast and a heartfelt good bye to the folks at Spice Village, driver George once again drove through the pristine route from the mountain tops to the planes of Kerala, a route laced with tall foggy mountains, rain forests, tea plantations and cascading creeks. We went through several neat little towns and also passed the Kottayam city and arrived at the docking station at town of Kumarakom, where a small speed boat was waiting to take us to  the CGH Group resort - Coconut Lagoon, that is accessible only by boat. The minute I passed through the back waters all the paintings of Kerala that I have seen as a child came alive. After a grand welcome at the Coconut Lagoon, our very own Kettuvallam, was waiting for us. Crew consisting of Chef - Ucchimon, Captain - Sharath & Assistant - Vincent, welcomes us on board. I have been tasty drinking coconut water for the longest time in my life (hailing from Bangalore and all) but never something like this, it was nectar from heaven in this shell. I would have had several of these if the fabulous “Onam Sadya” was not in store for us. “Onam Sadya”, is the elaborate vegetarian Kerala meal served during the festive day of Onam. Onam celebrated all over Kerala during early September to celebrate the harvest season as well as the victory of Bhali Chakravarthi, a legendary king who is believed to have lived in this region. Ucchimon & Vincent were finishing the cooking and making the Payasam when we started our cruise. The aroma of all the food and anticipation filled the boat. Also  in the boat were tones of fresh fruits & vegetables grown in the region. The crew had made a beautiful display of all the ingredients that went in the recipes. 

While on the boat, one can endlessly gaze onto the the backwaters that also happens to be the navigating route for all the people living on the shores. Like bus stops, there are boat stop, shacks, restaurants and small convenient stores all alone the shores. The popular alcoholic beverage in this region is fermented toddy. Toddy is the palm sap that collects on top of the coconut tree. A gentle tapping will cause dripping that can be collected and you see plenty of coconut trees with collected pots hung onto to them. Fresh toddy tastes very sweet, similar to coconut water but more intense and flavorful. It very quickly ferments and turns into alcohol known as - “Kallu” in Malayalam, and happens to be the number # 1 alcoholic beverage in Kerala. Fresh toddy is also used in cooking in throughout the west cost of India in Keralite, Mangalorean, Goan & Konkan cuisine. We also made a stop at one of the “Kallu” shops along the coast for a sneak peek before enjoying the gorgeous sunset on the Vembannadu lake.

After dusk, the fisherman lay their nets on the lake and it is time for all the boats to dock at the stations. We took a stroll into the Coconut Lagoon property, enjoyed their hospitality and the evening cultural events. Kerala, has strong presence of Hindu, Muslim & Christian religions. The middle eastern influence can be found in Kerala muslim dishes such as the Malabar Parottas & Malabar Biriyani. A vegetarian version of this awaited for us in the boat when we came back from the stroll on to the boat.

Breakfast - Spice Village, Thekkady - Idiappam (Whole grain red rice noodles), Stew, Nircha Pazham Pore (Exotic variety of Bananas, Battered & Fried), Fresh Fruit & Juices

Lunch - Spice Coast Cruise, Somewhere in the backwaters - Onam Sadya

Dinner - Spice Coast Cruise, at the Coconut Lagoon Docking Station - Malabar Parottas, Biriyani, Vegetable Koorma (a costal curry) & Vanilla ice cream